Hell's Hobby Electronics

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The_Hellr1der

The_Hellr1der

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6 Nov 2020
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Well, seems like some people might find this fun to see. As some of you know I am an electrical engineer by dayjob but in spare time like to play around with a lot of electronics too. This ranges from arduinos projects to designing and building custom PCBs to whatever comes in my electric boom mind. Some of the stuff comes from my company where they would usually throw it and people can safe it to play with it at home.
I will soon start posting pics, but posting to an active thread is easier from the smartphone then first having to open a thread from there ;) If you have any suggestions for fun stuff feel free to post it too, im always looking for new projects :D
 
Well the first episode of small electronics projects I run and built at home in spare time. First time I ever document something like this so I might miss out on a few pictures here and there. If you all like it I will make more of current and future projects (probably with more pictures too then). So have fun reading and let me know what ya think :D.

The idea started actually already a few years back at work, we got promised “1-push-of-a-button” generation of technical documentation. Well the software didn’t work like that but I still wanted to have 1 button to do all kinds of funny things. As I am also a bit too lazy reprogramming the controller every time, I wanted to use DIP switches to choose between different actions.

Well, when from a finished project some EMO (EMergency Off) buttons were left over I really wanted to built my big Red Button of Doom.
Idea: Use an Arduino Pro Micro (atmega32u4) as controller, an 8-pole dip switch, some resistor array and 1 of the contact blocks (NO - normally open) within the EMO button.
The arduino pick was simple, I have plenty laying around and this model can act like a normal USB keyboard. Therefore it doesn’t require any software installation later when using the button on a computer (could then even use it on the company laptop which doesn’t allow for software installs :p). The EMO button is normally a latching one (it stays pressed till you release it again) but for this type is also easily switchable to a momentary button which is closer to a real keyboard button.
RV6GoWGUPMRgJ4ixFP-VPUOIGUCwdu0vrkt-B0yEzUduwu9-Xg5O2Ze8q-ZbhjTw4ey8uzhoKeT82IwqJE4Jfo_Uzahrofp9eJFp3geYYRIpUPWW0sgQKGwBYXSnUSc4sC16H_QkKEZjaQexHLu1U04

First proto on a simple breadboard and everything hooked up, time to start thinking about the arduino code. I could just copy paste the entire code here but meh, not very fun to read (if anyone is interested I can always add or DM the code).
In principle what my code does, at first starting up and connecting to the host computer as a keyboard. At the same time I have a serial port starting which sometimes comes in handy to see how the button press behaves (double press, keyboard spamming that nothing is pressed etc etc etc…).
For the main program, I'm basically polling the button input pin and comparing it to the previous state. As long as the previous state and current state are equal the code will just ignore it. When the previous and current state are different it will continue in the code.

Previous StateCurrent StateInterpretation
LOWHIGHButton Pressed
HIGHLOWButton Released

When “Button Pressed” the code will read the DIP settings for what action to execute. Having 8 DIP switches present with 2 options each (ON / OFF) we will have a total of 256 possible actions. So the DIP counter will return a value between 0 and 255, this value will be fed into a switch-statement which defines which action the code will take based on that DIP counter value. Working with switch-statements gives me the possibility to have single actions but also have loops in there to have certain actions repeated till I release the button again.
For example, the value “0” is my programming state. I want to be able to connect the arduino as a keyboard to my computer but I don’t want it spamming around. For another case it will open the global chat in bf4. I'm still trying to figure out timings so I will be able to actually “type” something in the chat. An example of a loop is sort of a click/type bot for runescape skilling which keeps pressing certain buttons till the button is released again.
After the action has been completed the already red current button state is archived as the previous state and the whole main program starts all over again.

With the software done it’s now time to build everything into the EMO button box so that it also looks like a real button.
DkzIrdqbx93DuvHQzVMSrpt5Jp5T_amMCaTNsj645OuTRjB003a8ua6V86T5isu_yx1fNKImgjxc9lKu6G43pkPx1I_QiOk0kjiUnrMfWEKk5hEiNsAPI2jXp33LjXE0WItxqOqfc3AeYH2LFCQxMgo

A small pcb for the arduino and all wires to hook up the DIP switches and Button itself.

p8ACVqGWkFW4FD9TpzZEimy-SfElgKVQ_tKPpVMF77ZZxP5E6290xnMgjzX_N2U8_rTRhx5wJAu3O7HYfa_nJJnAwaLMyeMqt667-HptOdVsgJRYJrwD563gsxAx9vCS7plC6jsF05F8mGo4AfntAe0

First test fit into the EMO box

pWgXuPCNHBstgbYUk8EGChQsvxLm7BETS01GYMDVNRi72FjhbWg5nCbbsYJ4cEpC8A3e-wc7rxSFFieB0lZI3DK5tCjno-F362-m8MQ6xitbHXhzsuw7rlltXeS7aaSdiXsWnWegHBF_UhKOhUOSOxA

Built also a small pcb for the DIP switches and connected all the wires from the Arduino board to it.

ObAO56EOCOtnyPDpbT1TCVcaASYs51sRKfsS3KMwDJ6DwzMnDvr7w8JY1q21f2UqEhwwBJZKtaoFbwPYEcp3gwSlwaT75TjfZLfqLNVBFALmI1oiOH6cUn28J39SH8mSDK8QGIkRNeXUsVTNG26pR-o

Testfit with everything in the EMO box, only missing the USB passthrough.

8FOrdNzrAF9HFfe2O7-hNKjGSXFpnbWdUhlzS4OIY53BO1gF2fStVtbJpodbiEkB1XsUy4zc4toM8Dy9Pgv3FONA7koCeANbjn04M_VXMteQgjEEFvVD7aWI4_FPiJCv4O0IZa-H-PPfjfbaldV1YiA
ddlxagyuzD3dg-C5ofju91_ywoTclpAFeaQn0AmGRqXFp4tJIjd-faU1vxAdnno9uJH0olTUCYptJrZ7vOOga_B0r-fpVQSu7aBLSbfp-LlYX8b5I3TYTrpRtFXV2iqOi5D_7Y2TKMIee_weF_0a3x8

Drill a hole for the USB passthrough and close the whole thing up and done.
The black button on top is quite handy, it is able to act as a momentary switch as well as a latching one with the flick or a switch internally.
Still to do, program way more actions into it. Both for fun as well as work actions in the future.
 
I……I…..I understood some of these words :D

Sorry for my ignorance, but what does the button do now? I definitely looks cool though 😅

I am always super jealous when people can use what they have studied for projects in their free time….not really possible for me :D
 
I……I…..I understood some of these words :D

Sorry for my ignorance, but what does the button do now? I definitely looks cool though 😅

I am always super jealous when people can use what they have studied for projects in their free time….not really possible for me :D
Im happy you understand some of it :) if not understanding stuff feel free to ask mate!
Currently the button is just cool, always wanted to built something like this but with mainly playing BF4 and WoT now not usefull. Might program it into a computer shutdown button, sounds fun to smash a button for that :p
 
urrently the button is just cool, always wanted to built something like this but with mainly playing BF4 and WoT now not usefull. Might program it into a computer shutdown button, sounds fun to smash a button for that :p
try to set it up as a "T-Bag Button" for bf4. smash your hand on the button and your ingame soldier is making 3 tbags. :tbag::tbag::tbag:( special feature: some audio output for you like "dip, dip, dip" lol )
 
Well the first episode of small electronics projects I run and built at home in spare time. First time I ever document something like this so I might miss out on a few pictures here and there. If you all like it I will make more of current and future projects (probably with more pictures too then). So have fun reading and let me know what ya think :D.

The idea started actually already a few years back at work, we got promised “1-push-of-a-button” generation of technical documentation. Well the software didn’t work like that but I still wanted to have 1 button to do all kinds of funny things. As I am also a bit too lazy reprogramming the controller every time, I wanted to use DIP switches to choose between different actions.

Well, when from a finished project some EMO (EMergency Off) buttons were left over I really wanted to built my big Red Button of Doom.
Idea: Use an Arduino Pro Micro (atmega32u4) as controller, an 8-pole dip switch, some resistor array and 1 of the contact blocks (NO - normally open) within the EMO button.
The arduino pick was simple, I have plenty laying around and this model can act like a normal USB keyboard. Therefore it doesn’t require any software installation later when using the button on a computer (could then even use it on the company laptop which doesn’t allow for software installs :p). The EMO button is normally a latching one (it stays pressed till you release it again) but for this type is also easily switchable to a momentary button which is closer to a real keyboard button.
RV6GoWGUPMRgJ4ixFP-VPUOIGUCwdu0vrkt-B0yEzUduwu9-Xg5O2Ze8q-ZbhjTw4ey8uzhoKeT82IwqJE4Jfo_Uzahrofp9eJFp3geYYRIpUPWW0sgQKGwBYXSnUSc4sC16H_QkKEZjaQexHLu1U04

First proto on a simple breadboard and everything hooked up, time to start thinking about the arduino code. I could just copy paste the entire code here but meh, not very fun to read (if anyone is interested I can always add or DM the code).
In principle what my code does, at first starting up and connecting to the host computer as a keyboard. At the same time I have a serial port starting which sometimes comes in handy to see how the button press behaves (double press, keyboard spamming that nothing is pressed etc etc etc…).
For the main program, I'm basically polling the button input pin and comparing it to the previous state. As long as the previous state and current state are equal the code will just ignore it. When the previous and current state are different it will continue in the code.

Previous StateCurrent StateInterpretation
LOWHIGHButton Pressed
HIGHLOWButton Released

When “Button Pressed” the code will read the DIP settings for what action to execute. Having 8 DIP switches present with 2 options each (ON / OFF) we will have a total of 256 possible actions. So the DIP counter will return a value between 0 and 255, this value will be fed into a switch-statement which defines which action the code will take based on that DIP counter value. Working with switch-statements gives me the possibility to have single actions but also have loops in there to have certain actions repeated till I release the button again.
For example, the value “0” is my programming state. I want to be able to connect the arduino as a keyboard to my computer but I don’t want it spamming around. For another case it will open the global chat in bf4. I'm still trying to figure out timings so I will be able to actually “type” something in the chat. An example of a loop is sort of a click/type bot for runescape skilling which keeps pressing certain buttons till the button is released again.
After the action has been completed the already red current button state is archived as the previous state and the whole main program starts all over again.

With the software done it’s now time to build everything into the EMO button box so that it also looks like a real button.
DkzIrdqbx93DuvHQzVMSrpt5Jp5T_amMCaTNsj645OuTRjB003a8ua6V86T5isu_yx1fNKImgjxc9lKu6G43pkPx1I_QiOk0kjiUnrMfWEKk5hEiNsAPI2jXp33LjXE0WItxqOqfc3AeYH2LFCQxMgo

A small pcb for the arduino and all wires to hook up the DIP switches and Button itself.

p8ACVqGWkFW4FD9TpzZEimy-SfElgKVQ_tKPpVMF77ZZxP5E6290xnMgjzX_N2U8_rTRhx5wJAu3O7HYfa_nJJnAwaLMyeMqt667-HptOdVsgJRYJrwD563gsxAx9vCS7plC6jsF05F8mGo4AfntAe0

First test fit into the EMO box

pWgXuPCNHBstgbYUk8EGChQsvxLm7BETS01GYMDVNRi72FjhbWg5nCbbsYJ4cEpC8A3e-wc7rxSFFieB0lZI3DK5tCjno-F362-m8MQ6xitbHXhzsuw7rlltXeS7aaSdiXsWnWegHBF_UhKOhUOSOxA

Built also a small pcb for the DIP switches and connected all the wires from the Arduino board to it.

ObAO56EOCOtnyPDpbT1TCVcaASYs51sRKfsS3KMwDJ6DwzMnDvr7w8JY1q21f2UqEhwwBJZKtaoFbwPYEcp3gwSlwaT75TjfZLfqLNVBFALmI1oiOH6cUn28J39SH8mSDK8QGIkRNeXUsVTNG26pR-o

Testfit with everything in the EMO box, only missing the USB passthrough.

8FOrdNzrAF9HFfe2O7-hNKjGSXFpnbWdUhlzS4OIY53BO1gF2fStVtbJpodbiEkB1XsUy4zc4toM8Dy9Pgv3FONA7koCeANbjn04M_VXMteQgjEEFvVD7aWI4_FPiJCv4O0IZa-H-PPfjfbaldV1YiA
ddlxagyuzD3dg-C5ofju91_ywoTclpAFeaQn0AmGRqXFp4tJIjd-faU1vxAdnno9uJH0olTUCYptJrZ7vOOga_B0r-fpVQSu7aBLSbfp-LlYX8b5I3TYTrpRtFXV2iqOi5D_7Y2TKMIee_weF_0a3x8

Drill a hole for the USB passthrough and close the whole thing up and done.
The black button on top is quite handy, it is able to act as a momentary switch as well as a latching one with the flick or a switch internally.
Still to do, program way more actions into it. Both for fun as well as work actions in the future.
nice work :) so i know who i have to ask if i have problems with my arduino and my CNC shield controller in winter... I will finish my CNC project this year. All parts of my MPCNC are printet so far...

btw: i need a new "This is Bullshit" Button @ work
 
Last edited:
try to set it up as a "T-Bag Button" for bf4. smash your hand on the button and your ingame soldier is making 3 tbags. :tbag::tbag::tbag:( special feature: some audio output for you like "dip, dip, dip" lol )
The DIP DIP DIP isnt hard to make, only need to figure out the correct sitting time for the receiving end ;). The audio might be cool but as far as I know not natively suppported by this controller (worth looking if possible).

Dear Scoot,

The moment the pre-ordering date starts you will be informed the first by to known channels.
Hoping this informed you enough for the time-beeing.

With hellish regards,

The_hellr1der

Keyboard with macro can do that :D
But that isnt a bit smashy button and those are way more satisfying to smash then marco :tbag:

Gotta say electronics is something i understand nothing about but its so cool what kind of stuff you can build by yourself. :)


cat button GIF
<3 <3 <3

nice work :) so i know who i have to ask if i have problems with my arduino and my CNC shield controller in winter... I will finish my CNC project this year. All parts of my MPCNC are printet so far...

btw: i need a new "This is Bullshit" Button @ work
Dear Beer-drinking-bear,

The moment the pre-ordering date starts you will be informed the first by to known channels.
Hoping this informed you enough for the time-beeing.

With hellish regards,

The_hellr1der


If I can help, feel free to ask. Always wanted to built a CNC myself (milling PCBs would be awesome to do myself) so kinda curious now about your project :D
 
nice work :) so i know who i have to ask if i have problems with my arduino and my CNC shield controller in winter... I will finish my CNC project this year. All parts of my MPCNC are printet so far...

The DIP DIP DIP isnt hard to make, only need to figure out the correct sitting time for the receiving end ;). The audio might be cool but as far as I know not natively suppported by this controller (worth looking if possible).


Dear Scoot,

The moment the pre-ordering date starts you will be informed the first by to known channels.
Hoping this informed you enough for the time-beeing.

With hellish regards,

The_hellr1der


But that isnt a bit smashy button and those are way more satisfying to smash then marco :tbag:


<3 <3 <3


Dear Beer-drinking-bear,

The moment the pre-ordering date starts you will be informed the first by to known channels.
Hoping this informed you enough for the time-beeing.

With hellish regards,

The_hellr1der


If I can help, feel free to ask. Always wanted to built a CNC myself (milling PCBs would be awesome to do myself) so kinda curious now about your project :D
I started my CNC project last winter with printing the plastic parts for the MPCNC primo. (Much printing fails at the beginning :-D )
Today all ball-bearings and the stepper motors are fitted. Also the steelpipes are cut to size and the wooden base plate is here. Size will be 1200x800mm.


So start your CNC too its fun :giggle:

2022 08 14 195158 2022 08 14 195209 :giggle::giggle:
 
Interesting project and well built too. So basically it turns off the porn when you hear someone, er, coming?

I really must get back to playing with the Arduino. Seen people make model aircraft kits with engine start up sequences and lights and have thought I would like to try that and then thought, nah, sounds hard. 😁
 
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Interesting project and well built too. So basically it turns off the porn when you hear someone, er, coming?

I really must get back to playing with the Arduino. Seen people make model aircraft kits with engine start up sequences and lights and have thought I would like to try that and then thought, nah, sounds hard. 😁
Just try Glen...
Hell can help you 😅
 
Interesting project and well built too. So basically it turns off the porn when you hear someone, er, coming?

I really must get back to playing with the Arduino. Seen people make model aircraft kits with engine start up sequences and lights and have thought I would like to try that and then thought, nah, sounds hard. 😁
It isnt hard at all, I learned everything myself (engineering classes refused to learn us Arduino as it was too easy, HELL YEAH thats why everyone uses it). If you need help, feel free to ask :). Programming a boot sequence for a model airplane sounds fun.

@Black_Bear_GER I would love to built my own CNC, but first I will go for a 3D printer. CNC for my purpose would probably be also a lot smaller.
 
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Last Project I did was Warp Core Christmas lights for the kitchen window. My wishlist would be resin 3D printer, something like a Cricut and a wood lathe.
 
I used to dabble with electronics back in the 70s, mainly with fishing bite alarms and radio control. The first pic is of the first bite alarms that were crude using the tightening of the line to pull a lever and make a contact and turn on a buzzer (very troublesome and unreliable). I made my own using a wheel with a magnet that would operate a reed switch (better)

1660593401576
Then came the optonics that used a wheel operating a 2 or 4 blades that would break a light beam and giving a bleep. These were much better with an led but were quiet and used up a lot of batteries and were expensive.
1660595535426
Then somebody made a conversion using the optonic boxes (lots of problems with patents) and turned them into Delkims. These were the bolox, they would latch on for ten seconds with a magnet+reed sw and then switch off (unless triggered again) so batteries would last nearly a year. They had a volume and tone controls and different colour leds
1660596494319
I copied the circuit and made about 40 conversions for me and friends, it was hard work, everybody wanted some. I had to make the boards using photo sensitive copper boards (4 at a time) then stick them to a window for the UV to work and then use ferric chloride to remove unwanted copper, then cut and drill them, insert the components, solder and waterproof the boards (others didnt do this), £20 per conversion (£40 by delkim). Then I stopped, I was bored of just making these things and not have time to go fishing. These were great but you had a wire from each going to a sounder box in your tent, either me or someone else would trip on these wires and knock all the rods to the floor, so I made a simple 27mhz transmitter and receiver to do the same job and lose the wires.
Now this was gold dust, everybody wanted one and were ready to pay big money for it, but I never made one for anybody as I was using 1 of five frequencies allocated for RC (now you have digital, not then). The buzzer would trigger the transmitter to put out a carrier which would make the receiver trigger an oscillator that would drive a piezo sounder, with the range of half a mile. You could be standing next to my rods and not know I have a fish on but I could know in the pub 100m away 😂
1660599369737
These are the type of buzzers I use today, volume, tone and sensitivity control, and all have a built in transmitter (aerial arrowed) with a range of about 40m.
But back in the mid 70s mine was the first and only radio one until about the early 90s. I was there first and had some of the big names in Carp fishing begging me to make them one 🖕🤣.
I still have a go at fixing things and when fishing I still carry a small gas powered soldering iron and a bit of solder because there is always someone with something broken or with a dry joint that needs soldering.
Then started messing about with CB radio, transceivers and Rf amplifiers but now have sold up all rigs, test gear, power supplies and aerials (still have a 200w am/fm/ssb amp)
Now I just prod around with computers (well mine) 🤷‍♂️
 

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