60-Minute IPA

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NRU Heed
NRU Member
15 Mar 2012
Falkirk, United Kingdom
60-Minute IPA

Hops are included in many beers for a few different reasons. Firstly, they add bitterness to the beer (usually ale styles but not exclusive), secondly, they add to the aroma of the beer and finally they act as a preservative for the beer. First recorded use of hops was in Germany.

Pale ales were generally lowish in alcohol content so when the British Empire was a thing transporting beer to India quite often meant that the beer would spoil on the journey due to conditions and the heat during the journey. As hops had become known for acting as a preservative they were added to pale ales for export to India and these became known as IPA (Indian Pale Ale). These are relatively light coloured ale (amber to a slight caramel colour). After the Empire declined and the need for exporting beers declined with it the production of IPAs. There were still beers around that were IPAs but were not as popular as they have become.

With the popularity of craft brewing in the US increasing, IPA (sometimes also known as an Imperial Pale Ale) production was a popular brew. The IPA has now become popular across the USA and in the UK especially with drinkers who love hoppy beers. When you add the hops during the 60 minute boil part of the process will influence how the hop affects the beer. Adding hops at the start of the boil will add to the bitterness of the beer, at this stage most of the hop aromatics will boil away. Adding hops towards the end of the boil process will add something to the bitterness but mainly will add to the aroma of the beer and little to the bitterness. Adding hops in the middle does a bit of both - sort of. These beers can also be known as American IPA.

So what is a 60-minute IPA? Well, throughout the boils process you add hops as normal but the difference is that you add hops EVERY 5 minutes! A normal IPA will have something like 18gms of hops added (for a 4.5l batch). The 60-minute IPA (in my recipe) has a total of 40gms of hops! The end result is a beer that is quite bitter :D and a beer that also has a complex aroma. Dogfish Head brewery do a great 60-Minute IPA (and a 90-Minute which I really love!) and in the UK you can get it in Asda. The Asda beer isn't anywhere near as good as the beer available in the US but it gives you an idea of what it tastes like.

I used three hop types:

Columbus hops - dual purpose hop with intense earthy and faint citrus character. Used in American ales
Cascade hops - commonly used for both its aromatic qualities as well as its bittering
Golding hops - commonly used as an aroma (mellow and sweet scented) agent in beer

Golding was added at the beginning and end and the columbus and cascade throughout.

The other difference with this batch is the use of carrageenan during the last 10 minutes of the boil. Carrageenan is a seaweed that when added to the boil helps to draw out particulates and proteins that make the finished beer cloudy. Production beers are usually filtered but using this natural product should help clear the beer. Not that cloudy beer is bad it should help it to look better. One of the other batches I have done used a finings solution which appears to have the same effect but does mean that you lose some volume during the process whereas using carrageenan it will settle along with the yeast during the fermentation stage.

The only trouble with this brew is that really needs a 6 week conditioning in the bottle. So allowing for a 2 week fermentation it will be June before it is ready!

Anyone thinking of brewing should have a look at Home Brewing: A Complete Guide on How to Brew Beer by James Houston. 99p on Kindle or about £12 in paperback. Good value at 99p as it goes through all the processes and possible problems and equipment needed. Also discusses yeasts, hops and malts and the various beer types. Worth having a look at some other books to like Home Brew Beer by Greg Hughes which has better illustrations - wife bought me that one.

Have to admit I would love to do a big batch (5 gallon) rather than 1 gallon/4.5l but space required for that amount of beer is more than I have!
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Have to admit I would love to do a big batch (5 gallon) rather than 1 gallon/4.5l but space required for that amount of beer is more than I have!

as i know you have a lot of "unused" lawn at your garden you can still build a little "brewing shed" there. :agree:

also i would like to see install your gopro to have a look you working in your witches kitchen shed and also as a sideview to film your nighbors looking if your shed is starting to smoke, bubble and sizzle. guess you have a chance that someone call the police to report a drug laboratory into your garden. lmao
OK. For the next one I will do a headcam view of the brew process. However, it will be quite boring but the storyboard would be...

Scene 1 - Measure 2.5 litres of water and watch it reach 65C
Scene 2 - Pour grains into water and stir. Check temperature every 10 minutes and stir .
Scene 3 - Make a coffee and repeat above
Scene 4 - Repeats of 2 & 3 above
Scene 5 - Measure and heat 4 litres of water to 77C
Scene 6 - After one hour, heat grain mixture to 77 C
Scene 7 - Strain grain mixture
Scene 8 - Pour 77C water through grains
Scene 9 - boil wort for one hour add hops at required intervals
Scene 10 - Make a coffee
Scene 11 - Make a coffee
Scene 12 - Make a coffee
Scene 13 - Cool wort from boiling to 21C
Scene 14 - Pour liquid in to fermenter and add yeast and shake
Scene 15 - two week time lapse of fermentation vessel (in a dark room)
Scene 16 - pour beer into bottles
Scene 17 - timelapse of bottles in garage for two to six weeks
Scene 18 - Roll credits / The End

The idea for a shed would be good but Mrs Llama would probably claim it for her books. She wants a house with a library so all her 2,500+ books could be on display. Think I need to rob a bank before that will happen. Or we could have his and hers sheds...


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Fermentation is off and running. House smells less like a brewery this morning though Isobel was convinced I had actually done the brewing in the bedroom! Really looking forward to trying this beer in about 2 months.

Tried the first brew I did last night and it really is a nice beer but only one bottle left now. :(


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This is really going for it!

Using the seaweed as a clarifyer is already showing results. Beer is still fermenting but is much clearer than any of the others I have done. Doesn't make any difference to the final taste but does improve appearance when chilled.
Seems like fermentation has completed as there has been no activity in the air lock for some time now. That means getting it into the bottle.

Using the moss as a clarifying agent seems to have been very effective and I'll be using that going forward. As you can see in the picture the beer seems to be pretty clear whereas previous brews were a lot cloudier than this one.

Also tried the Belgian Strong ale that I brewed about a month ago. This tasted really good. Similar to what I had hoped for. As a recipe it would be something that I would produce again. The only issue was that it was a bit flat. Not sure if I didn't add any priming sugar to that particular bottle or if it was something else. Need to try another bottle before I can see if it was the whole batch.


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It is bottled! Yield was 5.5x500ml bottles which is a bit down on previous batches. Some of it is due to the large volume of sediment and trying to avoid getting that in to the bottle and you also lose a little by the syphoning process. There is more sediment than previous batches because of the Irish Moss. In the video you can see that there are still a few bits getting through but that won't matter as the yeast in the beer will start to ferment again because of the sugar added to the bottle. You get the same thing in some production beers like Chimay so I'm in good company! Again I've used clear bottles just to check the clarity and also to see how much sediment is produced by the bottle conditioning.

I'll give the beer some time to condition before use which should be about 6 weeks. However, the half bottle I will try sooner rather than later. There will still be some air in there and that will possibly affect the beer. At this stage the beer is flat so tasting isn't an exact guide to what it will taste like after conditioning but sampling some of the start of syphoning run off was interesting. So is it any good? :D Oh, yes! At this stage it tastes great and is just about what I hoped for. Given the volume of hops I added I'm not surprised at the hoppiness. I'm really looking forward to trying this one - very happy with the result.

I wasn't sure what I was going to try next but I think I may just do this one again. That will be useful to see if I can get it similar to this one and that will show if the process is being consistent. However, I may just up the amber malt content a little to make it a slightly darker colour. That will have an effect on the flavours but in a good way. Alcohol wise I have no idea what ABV it is but after trying a few sips I can feel some rosy cheeks appearing! I'm guessing that the 6.2% target may be a little off as drinking beer doesn't usually do that unless it is something like a Chimay Bleu which is around the 10% mark. Glad I don't have to drive for seven hours (except in BF4)!

Yes, I know the bottle nearly goes when closing it but you try doing it one handed (it was a last second thing to video the bottling other wise I would have used the head mount for the GoPro). You can also see how clear the beer is. That Irish Moss added to the boil has definitely done it's job!


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